Modern Apizza has been at 874 State Street since 1934, when Tony Tolli built a coke-fired brick oven at the back of the room. When the local supply of coke dried up in the 1960s, Modern converted to oil rather than follow its neighbours to coal or gas, and it still bakes that way โ one reason its thin, blistered apizza tastes distinct from the coal-fired shops across town.
